Tuesday, June 30, 2020

Preparation & Route




Since the bike has been completely overhauled after our last bigger tour in Iceland 2018, Nicolas and I initially intended to tackle Scandinavia and Finland for the 2020 season. But Covid19 decided otherwise ....
By mid June 2020 Norway and Finland are still closed for tourists, Sweden is stumbling over a recent infection wave and we cannot go to the North yet. 

School is finished by now and we will instead do a 4-5 day "introduction trip" into nearby Champagne / Aube region. 



Small country roads, cosy villages, vineyards, castles, lakes, typical regional sausages (Andouillette) are waiting for us to be (re)discovered. 

At the same time, this mini trip allows us to test our new camping gear: inflatable tent, hammocks, camping box (mobile kitchen), ....


From Brussels, our route brings us to the French border via Charleroi. Then crossing the "Parc naturel de l'Avesnois" heading straight south to the heart of the Champagne region, Epernay. 

We will hit the Seine river soon and stay a few days around historical city of Troyes. Back to Belgium longing the Lorraine border up North into the French Ardennes. 

Total distance approximately 1.300 km.


Weather looks good, almost too warm for a bike trip ... we'll take it anyway 😎






DAY 1 Going South through the beautiful Champagne region

Early bird start to avoid the announced heat wave. Our target is a campsite at the Aube river between Epernay and Troyes at approx 350 km from home.

Fantastic ride through endless grain fields. France has these wide open space with almost no traffic on the small roads. Quite a difference to overcrowded Belgium. We breath deeply ...


A few poppys are colouring the golden shine of the wheat. 


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Short coffee break in plain nature.


Shortly after we are hitting the vineyards of Northern Reims. Soft valleys and busy people all along working the vines under full sun.

Camping is situated in Arcis-sur-Aube, a small island dedicated for campers. It's run by a Dutch guy. 


After arrival at 1 p.m. first thing to do is cooking chinese noodles. Prepared by our little Etchebest himself.


We lived of that during our Island trip. That's camping 😋

Small stroll around the city center of Arcis with a Ricard at the bar. On the other side of the island, a small beach hides behind the camping. Fabulous swim in the Aube river. 


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Can't remember when I did that the last time. Probably when I was 18 or so ....


Getting sleepy on the grass. Tomorrow they announce 33°C 😬






Day 2: visit Aube region south of Troyes

Very nice sleep in our mosquito protected hammocks. Sidecar works well as the missing third tree.



Makes an efficient anti-theft device at the same time. Morning begins with croissant au beurre (quite good ones by the way which is rare) & café at the local bar in Arcis-sur-Aube. The baker is also a sidecar guy - he proudly shows us pictures of his Dnepr bike. 




One of the bolts fixing the engine has come loose and the owner of the car repair shop next to the bar allows us to use his tool box. Quick fix and we are off to visit the hilly landscape in the South of Troyes.


Endless fields are flying by, many of them growing agrimony (no-THC version I suppose) and poppy seeds. 


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That’s what I like most in France when riding motorbike: these endless open spaces.



At 11 am, the sun is already hitting hard (33°C) and we need a drink in the shadow. Opportunity to test the famous local drink:


Glass of champagne at Le Marius Restaurant in Les Riceys, a beautiful village with its majestic church. 





Many small villages in green valleys are on our route often with traditional wooden market halls, half-timbered houses, wood plated churches and a nearby river inviting us for a stop. 



Lunch time in Essoyes, well known for famous impressionist painter Auguste Renoir who owned a house and a workshop here. 



Despite (or because of) the heat, we are motivated to do a walk in the nearby somewhat cooler woods.


Final destination of the day is Troyes where we stay the night in a small hotel in the old city center. We happen to meet the owner and she likes our sidecar. Get's us an upgrade for the room.




After a 250 km drive in the sun we are totally cooked - cool shower and a couple of cold drinks brings us back to live. 



There are plenty of bars in the in the small alleys of Troyes and it's crowded everywhere. Looks like Corona never happened ...



Some drinks later we have finally dinner with grilled Andouillettes (offal sausages), french fries and strong Dijon mustard. Simply delicious.







Day 3: Troyes city visit and the nearby great lakes

We begin the day with a quick breakfast at the hotel. Scrambled eggs prepared by Melanie, our host for the night. No buffets are allowed under Covid rules, so all food needs to be ordered the day before and is served  individually on plate ready to eat. 


Our walk around the centre of Troyes begins early and we enjoy the cooler weather. 







Troyes is founded around 50 before J.C. and there are ample of old buildings to visit. Amongst perfectly restored houses, we cross many houses which are in disastrous conditions, the wooden beams bending in all directions and roofs coming down. Must be paradise for local construction companies ...

Behind houses often hide cosy gardens.



My favorite place is the market hall. France's stomach and big part of its identity. Good quality products everywhere, nicely presented. 


We leave Troyes around 11:00, fill up the fuel tanks and start our tour via the great lakes (Lacs d'Orient).  


There are wooden wind mills in France, too ...



Lunch stop on a hill with beautiful view. Nicolas prepares cowboy stuff: baked beans &  mashed potatoes in Tortilla wraps. 




In the afternoon, we arrive on the camping and the first thing we do is swimming in the nearby Lac Der. (Almost) empty beach ...


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Rain and stormy weather is forecasted for the night - stress test for our inflatable tent. In good preparation we use all lines to keep the tent on the ground.




Camping owner Magalie prepares us the good night drinks and we enjoy the last bits of light of the evening.









Day 4: Riding back to Belgium through the Ardennes

The night was indeed stormy with lightnings and quite a bit of rain. Tent is still up, but the tarp is down due to water puddles. 

By 8:30 baggage is back on the bike and we have breakfast at the camping bar. 400 km back to Belgium through the Ardennes awaits us. 

Sky is full of clouds but still with comfortable 25°C. Landscape is beautiful and made for motorbike riding. We stay on the smallest roads we can find through fields, farms and villages.

Arrival at home in the late afternoon. After 1.000 km test ride no broken bike nor tent. We need to improve some smaller parts and bits on the equipment but overall the material works fine. 

Hoping Finland will open its borders soon for our next sidecar adventure ...